Sunday, March 29, 2015

Truly Victorian TV462 Victorian Tail Bodice

The last piece of my Victorian evening dress. I used TV462 but made some modifications. With any of her bodices you will need to make a muslin. I have never made a boned bodice before and I was not sure how long this would take me to do. The answer is, a lot longer than I thought. I used her instructions for choosing my size. Forget any modern fitting methods you use. This is a different creature all together. Even with what fitting knowledge I have, I still had many struggles. We all do because all our bodies are so different. What I love about fitting over a corset is my waist/bust/hip measurement is static. Even if I have eaten a big meal. Love that.

After choosing my size I traced off the 3 main pattern pieces. I proceeded to make my muslin. I knew there would be many different fitting changes. However, per her instructions you should not make any changes to the back. I found that the back fit perfectly, except the armhole area where it always poofs out. I think this is because I have a forward shoulder. I may, in the future try to pad this area out. Also, based on the size I choose my armhole is too low/deep. My armhole measure is 17.5 around. Where as the size I need in the front bodice increases the armhole size. Anyhow, I won't delve too much more into my personal fitting of this bodice.

A side note: What I do notice about her patterns is the shoulder to apex area is always quite long. So if you are short from shoulder to apex there will be some adjusting in that area. I decreased this area by almost 2 inches. For reference, my torso is short and my legs are long.

The bodice needs 3 layers of fabric. Fashion, underlining (twill, mid weight/bottom weight fabrics) and a lining. You will not be underlining the sleeves. The construction of the bodice is pretty easy. Even the pleats. Just check her diagrams on how the pleats should be formed. And make sure you mark the fabric where you will be able to see the pleat markings clearly. What was time consuming was boning the bodice. It always takes longer than I think it should. But you REALLY need the boning. It gives such nice shape. I know, seems redundant having a boned bodice over a boned corset.

 I did make some changes to the bodice neckline. I left off the collar and used a pleated ruffle of silk and finished the seam with striped bias in my fashion fabric. I also added a lace ruffle on the inside of neckline. I didn't want to show too much cleavage.
Since I could not be bothered (too damn lazy) to match my stripes I decided to use bias trim on the seam lines of the back bodice. I did not realize this was an uneven stripe until I cut my bodice out. Well, necessity is the mother of invention. So I just rolled with it.

 Me and my BFF. Yes, I made her costume too. :-)
Saucy!
Me and my flower!

So, in the end the things I need to improve. Underlining skills (too many wrinkles). And fitting the shoulder/armhole area. My range of motion is somewhat limited. But I was happy with the end result and my dress garnered much attention.

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