Thursday, May 14, 2015

TV494 Truly Victorian 1890s Shirtwaist & Butterick skirt 5265

This pattern is fun! I enjoyed making it and I love the peplum option. Works great for us shorter waisted gals. I cut my regular TV size. G for the back and size I for the front. I always wait to cut my sleeve size until I have the bodice together. Then I can measure the armhole. I made my usual TV alterations. I take 2 inches out of the upper bodice length and another inch off the very front length and graded it out to the sides. I did this because I felt it was too poofy in the front. I did also lengthen my gathers on the back and front blouse top.

I find the my corset pushes my bust up higher and though I don't normally have a concave chest the push up factor causes me to have one. So I wind up taking a lot of fabric out of the top 2.5 inches of the front where things button up. This has been consistent across the board on her patterns. I did leave off the high collar. I really don't like them, I feel like I am choking even if it is loose.

The sleeves are pretty epic! I did use the net headers to make them poof out. I should have checked the length before I made them because they are about 1 inch too long. I just made a pleat and sewed a button on it at the hem. It keeps them at my wrists instead of slouching down. The fabric I used was a lightweight linen cotton blend. It is very comfy. I will be making this again for sure. It was easy to sew and easy to fit. Unlined and unboned. On the sleeves I do recommend just gathering them all the way up before inserting them into the arm opening. You will be gathering them super tight . Especially if you use headers.

Butterick 5265 Victorian style skirt.
 I have had this pattern forever so even though not 100%1890s correct I decided to use it anyway. I used a silk taffeta in a fun plaid. The skirt has a set on waistband and pleats at the front, side, and back. I drafted a deep hem facing from the bottom of the skirt pattern. This skirt is fully underlined. I also added a side pocket. My only gripe about this skirt is the closure. It is on the left side of the very front pattern piece. It just seems awkward to me. I made no alterations. I just went by my corseted waist size.

Hat is a Lynn McMasters pattern.

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