Friday, July 10, 2015

J. P. Ryan 18th Century Jackets

This is a great little 18th century pattern with lots of options. I felt it ran about one size smaller than the Robe a l' Anglaise I made. I ordered the size bust 42-44. Size 42 is the one I made which is the same size I made in the Robe a l' Anglaise. However on the the Robe I had to take a bit out of the front seam for it to fit. For my jacket (view D), since I had already cut out the size 42......Of course! Why trace the damn thing off when you can just cut it. Impatient Mimi is impatient....

I made the stomacher wider on the sides by 1 inch and used a smaller seam allowance along the front seam. The fit is good but close. Also the sleeves are pretty fitted. So if you have larger arms you will want to check to make sure they are not too tight. This jacket is fairly quick to make up until you get to the lacing eyelets. Yeah.....those have to be all sewn by hand. I am pretty sure view A would be the quickest to make.

The stomacher is boned down both sides and the center. My stomacher sandwich consisted of 1 layer of each, fashion fabric, down proof ticking, cotton duck and plain white cotton. I also used pre made boning tape instead of sewing the channels directly onto the stomacher. That way I am guaranteed an exact 1/4 inch boning channel. I decided to use German plastic boning instead of steel. German plastic is nice quality and a hell of lot less work than cutting and tipping the steels. This all came together really nicely.

 My fabric is a floral cotton (not quite chintz) that I bought at Farmhouse Fabrics. I made my petticoat (skirt) out of a nice green linen. The only thing I will be changing is my lacing ribbon. The shiny cream stuff is the only 1/4 inch ribbon I could locate in my stash. Oh sweet irony. I have loads of ribbon, just none in the right width.

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