Sunday, September 25, 2016

Laughing Moon #118 1840s-1860s Victorian Wrapper

I am gradually learning the best sizes for me in regards to Victorian Laughing Moon patterns (18 or 20). For Regency, because of my stays I use size 22. This is the wrapper I made for Costume College 2016 but was unable to wear it because I was unwell for the intended breakfast event. I was bummed I couldn't wear it, but these things happen.

Happily this pattern came in the new LM format, booklet directions and heavier pattern paper with colored cutting lines. I knew this was meant to be a loose fit. Of course I fell in love with the two fabric version. This view is not included with the pattern per se, but there are instructions on altering the front piece so it can be made in two different fabrics. It was very easy to do, just a bit more time consuming.

Details of my dress:
Half lined, no darts, matching belt, bishop sleeve. I used a floral cotton fabric from a reproduction line named Rebecca. I also used a contrast band along the hem because I had a bit more quantity of the purple fabric.

My details:
43-36-43 in a corset. 5ft 4 inches barefoot.

Size: 
Please bear in mind if you are unfamiliar with pattern sizing is not like ready to wear sizing, at all.
I started out with size 22 and made a muslin. It was too big in the shoulders and across the back. So i decided on the size 18 since I knew this was meant to be a loose fit anyway. The back on the 18 is a very good fit in width. The front is quite fitted across the top (upper chest).

Alterations:
Dropped shoulder, removed 2 inches and it is still nicely dropped. I carved out a bit in the front armhole. I do the same with Truly Victorian patterns.
Bodice back, took of a whopping 2 3/8 inches in length. My back of neck to waist is 15 3/4 inches. I am short waisted.
Skirt, shortened 3 inches. Their skirts are quite long so for you tall ladies, bonus!
Bishop sleeve, shortened 2 inches.

Other stuff
You will be piping the neckline and armholes. Do not be afraid of this (I was). It is quite easy and makes a very nice finish. The whole pattern went together very easily. Directions were easy to follow and I had no issues. This is a great pattern and I highly recommend it.



Haha! I could not resist!



2 comments:

  1. so glad it's not just me that has to hack out chunks from the shoulder! your dress is lovely, the contrast cloth really sets it off perfectly

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