Truly Victorian natural form part II TV423 and TV326

My natural form journey continues. This was my outfit for Saturday day at VicFest 2020. The underskirt is the same one I wore with the previous gown. FYI I'm still hanging at home but hopefully our state (Washington) will start to open up and I can see some of my friends (responsibly). :-)

Let's go! :-)

Pattern:
TV423 Two Toned Bodice.

Fabric:
Cotton poplin shirting, black with grey pinstripe from Fabric Mart. Contrast was grey silk taffeta that matched the underskirt.

Alterations:
I had to shorten the waist length considerably on this one.  Once I did that I had to add some length on the upper back of the bodice since I have a slight upper back curve and a forward shoulder. Those were my only alterations.

Construction:
This bodice was easy to sew together and I love the two toned look. Visually if you are plump (or not) if you use a lighter color for the center panels and a dark color for the rest it makes your waist look smaller. The darker color sort of disappears and the eye is naturally drawn to the lighter colored center panels. I also love the collar on this bodice. I get tired of the basic high collars on many Victorian fashions. Now, on to the overskirt!

Pattern:
TV326 Hermione overskirt.

Fabric:
Cotton poplin, same as bodice. Various types of trim were used. I actually had several lengths of leftover black gimp in different styles so I used them on various parts of the skirt. Win Win! I also used black chainette fringe and some leftover black velveteen that I made up into bows.

Alterations:
None.

Construction:
I had no difficulty sewing it together. I will say that cotton poplin is very dense and it was difficult to sew though on some of the intersecting seams. Also it is kind of a bitch to get that front upper panel seam to match up perfectly. I slapped a bow on mine because it was 1/4 inch off. Bows are great for covering mistakes!

If I were to make this skirt again I would use a lighter weight fabric, silk or less dense cotton.

Pictures!

It started to rain so I had to use an umbrella. As you can see there is a whole lot going on with the overskirt.

 Back view.

Thanks for stopping by!! I'm trying to stay positive and hopefully I will be able to wear these at VicFest 2021! :-)

Truly Victorian Evening outfit TV422 TV328 TV225

I was going to wear this to the Friday night event at the Victorian Festival in Port Townsend (cancelled).

Patterns are:

TV442---Natural Form evening bodice
TV 328---Split pannier overskirt
TV225---Fantail underskirt (this actually goes with another outfit as well, YAY!!!)

Here we go:

TV442 Evening bodice: 

Fabric used-silk brocade (thrift store find!) This brocade has a light crisp hand and it was a delight to work with. Cotton twill underlining.

Size: my usual size G back and size I front.

Alterations: This style era is apparently longer waisted than some others. I have a very short waist so I needed to take about 1.5 inches out of the waist length. Doing so shortened the back too much so I did a high round back adjustment on the back of the bodice. My upper back is a bit curved and i have a slight forward shoulder. I need some extra length going down the back to make the waist line hit in the correct spot. It was odd taking away some waist length and then adding back some length on the upper back. I actually did three muslins in order to get a good fit. After I had everything lined up correctly I sewed it all together and as usual for TV patterns it turned out nicely.

TV225 Fantail underskirt:

Fabric used-silk shantung.

Size: 36 waist

Alterations: Shortened it 1.5 inches. I'm not quite 5ft 4 in flats. I generally decide on my shoe situation before getting started so I know how much length to remove.
This is a pretty basic skirt and easy to sew. The pleats were time consuming and certainly not perfect but they add a nice touch.

TV328 Split pannier overskirt:

Fabric: Silk brocade, same as bodice.

Size: 36 waist

Alterations: None. This was a delight to sew and it makes a very pretty overskirt!

 Done and done! :-)

Natural form undergarments, Truly Victorian and Mantua Maker patterns

I made three natural form outfits plus one tea gown for the 2020 Port Townsend Victorian Festival. Sadly it was cancelled. :-(

I'm going to start with the undergarments and then the actual dresses will be on a separate post.

Undergarments:

TV125---Petticoat, no train
Mantua Maker 1880-10 princess petticoat
Self drafted bustle pad (gotta add some subtle curves and a bit of skirt support)

*I also wear hip and bum pads under my corset since my hip/waist ratio is lacking and I need some help.


Bustle pad:

Self drafted based on a museum garment. I used ticking and horsehair canvas bound with bias tape. I basically just looked at the picture and drew the shaped onto pattern paper. I checked the sizing by draping the paper on me and then once it was of proper scale I broke out the fabric and started sewing.

Fun bit of bum padding!

TV125 natural form petticoat, no train but I can add one later: Size made 36 waist.

Petticoat closes at the front. I had to shorten mine about 1.5 inches. I used an crisp percale IKEA bedcover that had pin tucks already sewn for me. :-) The pattern has you stuffing and sewing some crinoline netting sandwiched in-between two layers of fabric on the back of the petticoat. You do not see the netting at all. I decided (I had no netting and didn't want to buy any) to just use cotton organdy ruffles instead. I get plenty of support with the ruffles and am not missing the netting at all. Petticoat is easy to sew and I had no issues with it.

Mantua Maker princess petticoat: Size made XL. I used some lovely pinstriped cotton shirting. The ruffles are pre ruffled eyelet.

Nice pattern, directions are wordy and sometimes bossy. Not difficult to follow at all. You cut your size and fit it as you go. I actually like this idea and at the end you have an actual thing to wear. :-) You don't want this skin tight so lave a bit of ease for weight or for days you don't wish to lace as tightly. Pattern was easy to sew and I like the fact it has a very low square neckline so it goes under evening dresses nicely.

I added 2 ruffles at the bottom and pretty lace trim with blue ribbon.

That is it for my natural form undergarments. Of course this is worn with a corset and additional hip/bum padding.