Sew Modern Sew Historical: My grey plaid Regency dress using La Mode Bagatelle patterns

There was a fabulous event this last weekend put on by the Jane Austin Society of North America. (JASNA) I made this dress last year but didn't have any good pictures of it until now. I am wearing my Wingeo stovepipe hat and a green silk taffeta spencer (Laughing Moon #129). This post is focusing on my La Mode Bagatelle dress.

Pattern:
Realistically this pattern set is all you would need for an entire Regency wardrobe. The whole package is beautifully put together and loaded with different styling ideas. I made the faux drop front dress with shaped skirt (view D). This puts my dress a bit later in the Regency period. I prefer the Regency styles from about 1810 on up.

Sizing and fabric:
I used size 20. My measurements in stays are approximately 44 bust, 39 under bust and 37 waist. I made no alterations to the bodice pattern. The skirt I shortened by a couple inches. My fabric is silk taffeta and the bodice is lined with sturdy white muslin. The sleeves of this era run long anyways so I didn't shorten them.

Construction:
I didn't really have any issues with the directions. The gown went together easily. The sleeves have 4 notches along the sleeve cap. The double notch is the back of the sleeve. The next notch you match near the shoulder seam. Put the fullness where you need it. The last two notches match to the armhole notches at the front.

UDATE: 6/30/2017
Ok, so I am making view D again with short sleeves. I realized I had put the bias neckline casing in wrong on my grey dress. Not that it matters, however it did bring to light an issue with the directions. I think this will also apply to view C as well. On view D if you make the neckline casing via the instructions you will have no way to use the drawstring. Solution ---Make a single small buttonhole on the center front bodice LINING piece (right side of fabric). That way you can access your drawstring. On view C (crossover bodice) I am not sure how to manage that. Once you sew your skirt to the bodice you will essentially sew your drawstring casing closed. Also, it's difficult to tell from the drawings but you sew the drawstring casing to the wrong side of the bodice lining. It winds up sandwiched between the fashion fabric and the lining. Make sure when you under stitch it you are very careful. A few wrong stitches and you won't be fitting much through that little casing. But the under stitching really makes a difference.

End notes:
I really like this pattern. It's only flaw is that it buttons up the back. ;-) This dress has a great shape and the waistline is nice and high. I also like the fact there are no gathers under the bust line. The gored A-line skirt is very flattering. I will definitely make this again. I would like to add a couple more cotton Regency dresses to my wardrobe for summer. I will probably use this pattern for one of them.

Laughing Moon #129

Pattern:
Cross over spencer jacket with 3 different collar options and hem finishes.

Sizing and fabric:
Just like my pink pelisse I used size 22. I shortened the bodice by 1/2 an inch and shortened the sleeves 1.5 inches.

Construction:
Easy. No issues.

End notes:
I like the ruffle on the back. And the collar is super flattering. This is a really cute little jacket and I can see why they were so popular.