Fig Leaf Pattern 112 The 18th century Italian Gown finished!!!

Well since I have more free time these days I decided to do some hand sewing. I have had this pattern since 2019 and it's been on my hit list. I have only made one other pattern by this designer and it was a simple Regency short gown (basically rectangles). I was feeling fearless and had some lovely IKEA cotton fabric!! Well, actually a comforter cover but..... ;-)

Pattern:

Fig Leaf 112 1780s Italian Gown. Pattern is created using an extant example in the DAR collection. Fig Leaf patterns are like a fashion history lesson in a package and certainly well worth the pattern price. A lot of gowns were previously altered as fashion changed and the pattern designer includes these optional alterations, piecing etc...on the pattern itself. Another nice thing is all the instructions come in a spiral notebook format.

FYI-----The petticoat is not a part of this pattern. I used the American Duchess book for that part. I mostly machine sewed the petticoat.

Fabric:

IKEA historic print cotton comforter cover for the gown and silk taffeta (Cosmos from Silk Baron).

Alterations:

First off you will need all the proper undergarments before you begin. Chemise, stays, under petticoats and a bum pad. Fig Leaf patterns are designed to be worn over stays etc... Read the size measurements carefully and pick closest to your size. If you fall in between sizes go up.

I made two muslins before cutting out the gown. Since I fall between 18 and 20 I went with the 20. It turned out to be too big, especially in the back. I went down to 18 and the fit was much better. I had to shorten the waist length (normal for me since I'm short waisted). I also knew I was going to be pinning closed so I kept the extra bodice width offered for pinning intact. I also did a small full arm adjustment on the sleeve. I need to shorten the sleeve a bit and will do that when I make this again. The gown is originally a round gown with the center skirt being a "faux petticoat" attached to the gown. I opted to make my petticoat completely separate because I wanted a different fabric. I used the American Duchess book for petticoat instructions. That is the extent of my alterations.

Construction:

Mostly by hand. This gown is not super difficult to make and the directions are straight forward. I don't recommend this for a beginner and it does help to have some 18th century experience. The construction methods are very different than modern day stuff. 

The most challenging part was setting the sleeves. My advice is to do it in two parts. Sew the underarm area first then try on the gown and make some shitty attempts without a fitting helper to get the sleeve cap to fit YOUR personal shoulder shape. I managed to get it done but not without some frustration. Not the patterns fault, just my own personal issues. ;-)

I used the sewing machine on the underarm and the long skirt seams. Otherwise everything else is done by hand.

Final thoughts:

Great pattern! It was a challenge but worth it in the end and I would certainly make it again.