TV462 Tail Bodice and TV263 Imperial skirt Victorian Bustle Dress 1880s

Because I was in need of a fantastic purple bustle dress for an upcoming event. The Vampires Ball in Portland Oregon. I wanted something that was properly historical but still could be worn to a more non traditional event. Costuming takes time so I want things that are versatile. 

This is the second time I have made this bodice. The first time I was a novice at costuming and had never worked with a TV bodice before, just skirts. I would say get a couple of her bodices under your belt before using this one. TV400 is a good one for a beginner and you can use it for both bustle eras. 

I highly recommend this pattern. I made the open necked version in purple silk taffeta. I used my normal size and did my normal adjustments. This bodice is easy to put together and the pleats are not difficult. Just look at the diagram and read the instructions. When you make the pleat markings I suggest marking them on the right side of your underlining and the right side of your bodice lining, if you are lining the bodice. That way you can always see the marks and everything matches up. I did contact TV and asked if the puff sleeve from TV460 would work with TV462. She said yes. That is the sleeve I have used here. Such an easy sleeve to do! I also put a nice ruffle of lace around the neckline and on the sleeves.

Side notes:
My skirt is the Imperial skirt. As you can see I used it as a foundation and did my own thing. I am wearing the Imperial bustle and a bustle pad. I slip the bustle pad into the top of my bustle and it keeps the skirts from weighing it down. Hence the nice 1880s big bustle.

The flowers I made from various colors of lining fabric. I found a tutorial on YouTube. Yay for tutorials! They don't take long to make and have become sort of a guilty pleasure for me to make. I like that you can use inexpensive lining fabric for these. Because you use an open flame to curl the petals you have to use synthetic fibers. I tried a few different types.

Costume Satin: Underwhelming. A bit too heavy. Even the lightweight cheapy stuff was meh..

Poly Organza: Underwhelming also. A bit to springy and didn't curl as nice.

Chiffon: Huge PITA. Slippery.

Thin poly lining fabrics like China Silk: This particular brand works the best IMHO. I tried some other lining fabrics and they were ok, but not as nice as China Silk. Red has been the toughest color to work with so far. Something about the color causes it to blacken on the edges. Even if I hold it the same distance away as I do the white or pink. You can also use tulle but you don't need to put that near a flame.

Flower close up. And feathers, gotta have feathers.

Truly Victorian TV405 Vest Basque Bodice my 1870s silk bustle dress plus new undergarments!

This all started with the silk taffeta that arrived looking nothing like the color I thought it was supposed to be. I was expecting an olive-ish greenish something. It is, well... Brown. Sort of toffee colored with a shimmer of golden olive. It left me in a quandary. I was (and still am) planning a pretty green bustle dress. But this fabric, even though not expected, was drawing me in. A challenge. A color that does not quite suit me. I really wanted to make it work. This fabric is papery crisp and has the most delightful swishing sound when I walk around in it. I cruised around the internets and finally landed on some blue and brown micro check silk shantung at Mood. It was 9.99 a yard and the brown shade in the check was an exact match to my taffeta! Plus knowing I was going to use it as the vest part I didn't need to buy 9 gazillion yards.

TV405 Vest Basque:
I had not made this pattern before. It has been sitting in my stash for years (like 4). I know, I am so drama. ;-) The only thing I wasn't digging about this pattern was the cuffs. Those would drive me crazy. So I substituted the sleeves of TV403. They fit great! I found this bodice easier to fit. I think because on my last one I had finally worked out some issues and confusion I had been having. I took out a 1/2 inch fold across the back. As you can see it rid me of the back armhole lump bubble o' fabric I normally have. As usual I shortened the upper bodice 2 inches and I adjusted the front shoulder seam to get rid of that front armhole fabric lump bubble that always wants to become a dart. It did help quite a bit. I had no issues putting the bodice together. It was easy. You treat the vest seam as the second dart. I wound up making that seam a little smaller for fitting purposes. I really love this bodice and plan on making it again. It is very flattering.

The skirts are TV201 and TV305. All worn over the TV108 grand bustle. I also made two new petticoats, and two (yes two!!!!) combination underwear. One is baby pink and one is black (meow!) I will never make a separate chemise and drawers again. Historically accurate be dammed! Combinations all the way!

I decided to just make a basic black hat. It is the same hat base as my kelly green one. Easy and quick! Goes with everything!

Here are all the undergarments:

Truly Victorian Grand Bustle:

Truly Victorian petticoats View 1:

 First petticoat in pink!

Second petticoat in cotton lawn leftovers.

Truly Victorian combinations TV105:

This was surprisingly easy to make. The most time consuming part is all the facings. I recommend using interfacing of some kind on all the facings for stability. I had no trouble fitting this garment and it does go together pretty quickly. I shortened the length on the legs only, for reference I am 5ft 4in tall. I really like the low neckline. It doesn't show at all when I am wearing my gowns. I left off the mini sleeves and just finished the arm holes with bias. I put separate garment shields in my bodices and didn't want any additional bulk.

All in all, I am satisfied with all I have achieved in the month of November! I am especially pleased with some new undergarments. I don't enjoy sewing them very much. But I did manage to keep my focus and get them done. Yay!