Larkin & Smith 18th century English Gown

Larkin & Smith English Gown 1770s 1780s. This was out of my comfort zone but I am very pleased with the result. Larkin & Smith offer historical patterns to be made up in the period manner (H/A). This dress was to be made entirely by hand. I am not a huge fan of handwork so mine is about 65% hand done. I highly recommend this pattern for intermediate level. It helps to have an idea of 18th century fashion and construction techniques. L&S patterns are very well drafted and the instructions come in book format with COLOR photos. You also get a set of garment pins for your finished dress. Yes, this dress is pinned closed, as they would have been in historical times. 

Muslin: Not too many adjustments. I shortened the shoulder straps 1/2 inch. I shortened the bodice 1.5 inches (I am short waisted). I also made a muslin of the sleeves just on case. I made no other adjustments. 
Construction: Directions are clear and concise. As you are going along if you feel something is left out just keep going. It gets covered along the way. This is a very methodical process. I was second guessing a couple things and FB messaged L&S. They were very helpful. However, had I just kept going my questions would have been answered. The back pleats are super easy! Don't be scared. There is a template you trace off and it is so easy. I did hand stitch my back pleats and it took little time. The sleeves are very easy to put it. It is done as a two step process and I had zero issues. 

Advice and end notes:
The back pleats take up a bit of length. I decided to add some extra to my back and skirt sections. You measure and figure out (easy math) how long you need your dress. I did not have a sewing friend to help with the measurement so I used my dress form set at my shoe wearing height. My length was 55 inches. Everyones will be different. I recommend extra fabric if you are tall. I am 5ft 4in. This dress requires stays. When you pin it closed the pins go into your stays. Mine are only half boned and it is more of a challenge for me, so I just do my best. This dress has no boning at all. Neither does the stomacher. Dress is very low cut, but I luv it!

Last but not least:

What I sewed by machine: Sleeves, skirt seams, robings, back of under bodice seam, petticoat. Everything else was done by hand. Dress and petticoat are made of linen. I am wearing the ugly puffer and two underskirts. Shoes by American Duchess.

8/11/2020 Updated pictures and more info:

After wearing this gown a couple times I realized the shoulders are still a bit too long for me. I'll need to go back and readjust at some point and I will also adjust the pattern pieces. I also made the "Brain" hat from the American Duchess book. 

Larkin & Smith 18th Century Silk Short Cloak

I figured for the ball I am attending next month I may as well make a pretty cloak. Because...well...dramatic hooded cloak!! Again I can blame movie influences on my love of certain wardrobe items. I will point the finger directly at The French Lieutenant's Woman and more importantly, L.A. Confidential when Kim Basinger meets Russell Crowe for the first time. I really liked Kevin Spacey in that movie BTW. And Russell Crowe was good too. But I have a soft spot for Kevin Spacey, John Malkovich and Gary Oldman.

This is only available as a precut kit. You have a nice array of color choices. I decided on classic black and white because I am also classic. The kit comes with all supplies and instructions. Now, it is meant to be completely hand sewn... Haha! Yeah, no. Not gonna happen. Complete respect to people who love handwork that much. I don't fall into that category because impatient Mimi is impatient.

When I constructed it I just did right sides together, clip seams and turn right side out. Easy peasy. The only part I did stitch by hand were the pleats on the back of the hood, and the hood lining over the neckline seam allowance. The trim I pleated via the sewing machine. Needless to say it went together very quickly. I did have to contact L&S just to ask what part of the hood was top, back, front and neckline since  I didn't have any pattern pieces to reference back to.

The fashion fabric of the cloak is black silk satin. I have never worked with silk satin before. It frays a lot. More than taffeta even. However, it has a lovely soft hand and is very pretty. The lining and trim are white silk taffeta.

I really like how it turned out. :-)

Woman of mystery...