Rocking Horse Farm 186 Chemise a la Reine and Washington Regency Society picnic

One of my most favorite events! The WRS Regency picnic at Lakewold Gardens. This was my second year in and I decided on a new Chemise a la Reine and hat. I have a white chemise from the Laughing Moon pattern line. This time around I wanted a fluffy one. I found the RHF pattern on Etsy and decided that was the one for me. Plus there was minimal fitting involved. ;-)


Pattern:

A drawstring Chemise dress with fluffy sleeves. You can add ruffles to the sleeve hems and neckline. This pattern is a fabric hog especially if you only have 45 wide fabric. I didn't have enough for a matching petticoat.

Sizing and alterations:

I went with size XL, 42-44. Since I am petite in length from my shoulder to apex I used the size medium shoulder straps. I shortened the skirt length by 2 inches. No other alterations were made. I chose to make mine a open robe VS sewing closed the lower front.

Fabric and construction:

I used a lovely silk voile with a very fine green pinstripe. Not period correct but it was in my stash. Silk voile is a delight to work with and so floaty when worn. The directions were easy to follow. Your neckline casing will show. I didn't realize this and used a lightweight white cotton for mine. No biggie. Also when I gathered the neckline to fit the casing I went easy with the gathers over the shoulder and concentrated them in the front and back of the gown. If you make the gathers too dense over your shoulders the sleeves don't hang real well and it made the armholes much tighter than called for.  My advice is gather the neckline and baste it to the casing. Try on the dress and check how your gathers lay. Make adjustments as needed.

Changes and end notes:

I used elastic in the sleeves. Not too tight, just enough to pull the sleeves in and rest gently around my arms. I loathe overly tight elastic. Plus the dress already has three drawstrings on the bodice, the last thing I want is drawstrings on the sleeves too. Three is my limit. This would be a good pattern for a confident beginner. It's easy to fit and make. I skipped on the sash and decided on a 3 inch double sided satin ribbon. After looking at examples on Pinterest I liked the idea of showing off the gathers on the bodice. Lol, and just a side note. This is not a slimming dress style. It is very fluffy and makes you look a bit like a marshmallow. However, I don't care about that. I felt very girly and pretty.

Hat:

Pattern is "Sara" by Denise Nadine Designs. I made the brim 2 inches larger. Her directions are easy to follow but you are on your own as far as decorating goes. That is my preference anyways.

Now on to pictures!!

 The Countess and I talking shop.

 The lovely and lively Lady C and Empress S!

 The three graces.

 Our newest and youngest member was in attendance!

 Three lovely ladies! We like to travel in threes. One for the lookout and the other two can roll the drunks. ;-)

 Ms. R looking lovely amongst the flowers.

 The Countess and I enjoyed playing graces!

Weeeeeeeeeeee!!

 Lakewold Manor

 Two other lovelies enjoying graces!

 The back of Lakewold and the veranda where we set up our picnic.

 A perfect day for croquet!

 Hat detail.

 If you make a hat you wish to wear tilted it helps to put a bandeau inside the brim. The bandeau will stabilize the hat as it sits upon your head. This applies to hats that are designed to sit atop your head VS a hat you wear pulled down on your head.

Yes, my needlework is pretty coarse but I try not to sweat it. Nothing I do is perfect anyways. :-)

Larkin & Smith 18th century English Gown

Larkin & Smith English Gown 1770s 1780s. This was out of my comfort zone but I am very pleased with the result. Larkin & Smith offer historical patterns to be made up in the period manner (H/A). This dress was to be made entirely by hand. I am not a huge fan of handwork so mine is about 65% hand done. I highly recommend this pattern for intermediate level. It helps to have an idea of 18th century fashion and construction techniques. L&S patterns are very well drafted and the instructions come in book format with COLOR photos. You also get a set of garment pins for your finished dress. Yes, this dress is pinned closed, as they would have been in historical times. 

Muslin: Not too many adjustments. I shortened the shoulder straps 1/2 inch. I shortened the bodice 1.5 inches (I am short waisted). I also made a muslin of the sleeves just on case. I made no other adjustments. 
Construction: Directions are clear and concise. As you are going along if you feel something is left out just keep going. It gets covered along the way. This is a very methodical process. I was second guessing a couple things and FB messaged L&S. They were very helpful. However, had I just kept going my questions would have been answered. The back pleats are super easy! Don't be scared. There is a template you trace off and it is so easy. I did hand stitch my back pleats and it took little time. The sleeves are very easy to put it. It is done as a two step process and I had zero issues. 

Advice and end notes:
The back pleats take up a bit of length. I decided to add some extra to my back and skirt sections. You measure and figure out (easy math) how long you need your dress. I did not have a sewing friend to help with the measurement so I used my dress form set at my shoe wearing height. My length was 55 inches. Everyones will be different. I recommend extra fabric if you are tall. I am 5ft 4in. This dress requires stays. When you pin it closed the pins go into your stays. Mine are only half boned and it is more of a challenge for me, so I just do my best. This dress has no boning at all. Neither does the stomacher. Dress is very low cut, but I luv it!

Last but not least:

What I sewed by machine: Sleeves, skirt seams, robings, back of under bodice seam, petticoat. Everything else was done by hand. Dress and petticoat are made of linen. I am wearing the ugly puffer and two underskirts. Shoes by American Duchess.

8/11/2020 Updated pictures and more info:

After wearing this gown a couple times I realized the shoulders are still a bit too long for me. I'll need to go back and readjust at some point and I will also adjust the pattern pieces. I also made the "Brain" hat from the American Duchess book.