Laughing Moon Pattern 138 Regency Gown and time for a ball!

Oh it was that time of year again!!! The Washington Regency Society's 12th night ball. It was fantastic and so thoughtfully put together. Of course I needed a new dress for it! I wanted to dig into Laughing Moon 138 for awhile so now I had an excuse.

Pattern:
Mid to later Regency with loads of different trim/neckline/sleeve options. The waistline is a bit lower and there are bust darts. The dress buttons up the back.

Size:
I am pretty much a size 22 in LM patterns so that is what I used. I made no alterations.

Fabric:
Silk shantung for the dress and cotton for lining.

View:
I used the mid neckline and the slash and puff sleeve. The trim on the skirt and bodice was my own design.

Directions:
Great! I have no complaints. The slash and puff sleeves are time consuming but worth it. They do require some hand sewing.

The darts, oh the darts:
Soooooooo......The darts are very high and very pointy. I don't care for them. Next time I will use gathers. One of my friends made her bodice with gathers and it looks really nice. I was unhappy enough with the darts so I covered them with some gathered trim.

Final thoughts:
This makes up into a lovely gown. I will use this pattern again for sure!

The ball was great fun! I didn't really take any pictures since I was too busy having a good time. ;-)

My plaid Mantua Maker Regency Gown 1810-1 Review

FINALLY I am writing this one up. I made this dress last year at the beginning of fall and didn't have the opportunity to wear it until yesterday. Washington Regency Society had their museum outing and spring tea. So out came the silk bonnet and thin cotton dress for a pouring down rainy Pac NW day.
;-)

Pattern, size, fabric:

Mantua Maker No. 1810-1 Regency drawstring dress. Multi sized. Fabric was a plaid cotton voile.
Size chosen : Large. My measurements in chemise, long stays, bodice petticoat-- 43-39(under bust)-43 hips.
 I felt that the XL would be too big in the bust. Plus this was going to be a wearable muslin I figured I can make changes when I make the next one.
Here is the thing about this specific pattern. In order to see if it's going to fit you all those drawstring channels need to be sewn. It's a bit of work. So I thought if I just make the dress up as is I can check fit and have a not perfect dress to wear. Yay!

Instructions:

Very clear. Actually pretty darn bossy. This is not a complaint, just an observation. I do my own thing so I sewed it all by machine including the hems. The dress went together fine. PLEASE read all the instructions first though. In order to make the uber multi puff sleeve you have to do the maths and lengthen the given pattern piece. She gives you the formula to use. I always keep a calculator handy so it was no issue. You will also need to lengthen the skirt piece as well. But most of us are already lengthening, shortening or lifting our skirts anyways. ;-)

My thoughts and changes I made:

This is a good but labor intensive pattern. It is size adjustable so 1 dress could be made to fit several people. She recommends ribbon or rattail cord for the drawstrings. I struggle with super shiny ribbon and rattail. This is a me issue, not a you issue. If you want to run through a field of flowers in a satin dress trimmed with 900 yards of shiny satin ribbon well you do you baby! Have fun, that is what this is all about!
So I used 1/8 wide white twill tape I buy by the roll at Burnley & Trowbridge Co. The waist tie is white satin ribbon.

I used elastic in the sleeves. She wanted all drawstrings and I wasn't having it. Elastic can fit many sized arms without the constant adjustments of drawstrings. However washing and ironing this will be a bitch. My next one will be silk taffeta dry clean only thanks.

The neckline has 4 total sets of drawstrings. Then you have the waist ribbon drawstring. I had to have husband draw everything up and tie them off before I could really tell how this would fit. It took us about 5 minutes to accomplish this event. I realized if I would always need help getting in this dress and Mimi doesn't like that. I am a strong independent woman. So once we had them adjusted exactly where I wanted them I untied only the waist and easily slipped the dress off over my head. I knotted all the ties (except for waist) and top stitched the drawstrings in place at the shoulders. So this dress is not as adjustable but I can sure as hell put it on by myself. Just slip it over your head and tie the waist ribbon.

Alterations I will need:

The under bust/waist just barely meets at the back. I will make it a couple inches bigger. If you are larger than a B cup (D here) you will want to add a bit of length to the bodice. Otherwise the waist seam line will be at your mid bust. Mine is landing a little high. Tying the waist ribbon around the front helps. So that is another thing I need to change. Otherwise it really is a pretty dress. I want it made out  of black silk taffeta. With those ridiculous sleeves. Regency Gothic, Northanger Abbey.

Other final thoughts:

I know a lot of people avoid her patterns because the cover art and few pictures are not that great. Maybe she has been doing this so long there is no interest in repackaging her product. I think that is a shame but... not my circus etc etc etc....

So after all my blah blah blah......I recommend this pattern. Not for a beginner, but anyone beyond that could have a go. Enter into this journey with inexpensive fabric you like but don't love. Plan on just making a wearable muslin. Have fun!

Photo Roundup!

At the museum photo op.

Back view. Ooooooo that back waist is barely keeping it together!

Who wore it better?

Dress front. The drawstrings on the bodice panel are NOT adjustable, just for pretty.

Dress back, many drawstrings.

Shoulder where I topstitched the drawstrings in place.

The Lovely Countess selling her tomatoes....

Lady Rebecca and I trying to open the safe.

The Washington Regency Society

Rocking Horse Farm 186 Chemise a la Reine and Washington Regency Society picnic

One of my most favorite events! The WRS Regency picnic at Lakewold Gardens. This was my second year in and I decided on a new Chemise a la Reine and hat. I have a white chemise from the Laughing Moon pattern line. This time around I wanted a fluffy one. I found the RHF pattern on Etsy and decided that was the one for me. Plus there was minimal fitting involved. ;-)


Pattern:

A drawstring Chemise dress with fluffy sleeves. You can add ruffles to the sleeve hems and neckline. This pattern is a fabric hog especially if you only have 45 wide fabric. I didn't have enough for a matching petticoat.

Sizing and alterations:

I went with size XL, 42-44. Since I am petite in length from my shoulder to apex I used the size medium shoulder straps. I shortened the skirt length by 2 inches. No other alterations were made. I chose to make mine a open robe VS sewing closed the lower front.

Fabric and construction:

I used a lovely silk voile with a very fine green pinstripe. Not period correct but it was in my stash. Silk voile is a delight to work with and so floaty when worn. The directions were easy to follow. Your neckline casing will show. I didn't realize this and used a lightweight white cotton for mine. No biggie. Also when I gathered the neckline to fit the casing I went easy with the gathers over the shoulder and concentrated them in the front and back of the gown. If you make the gathers too dense over your shoulders the sleeves don't hang real well and it made the armholes much tighter than called for.  My advice is gather the neckline and baste it to the casing. Try on the dress and check how your gathers lay. Make adjustments as needed.

Changes and end notes:

I used elastic in the sleeves. Not too tight, just enough to pull the sleeves in and rest gently around my arms. I loathe overly tight elastic. Plus the dress already has three drawstrings on the bodice, the last thing I want is drawstrings on the sleeves too. Three is my limit. This would be a good pattern for a confident beginner. It's easy to fit and make. I skipped on the sash and decided on a 3 inch double sided satin ribbon. After looking at examples on Pinterest I liked the idea of showing off the gathers on the bodice. Lol, and just a side note. This is not a slimming dress style. It is very fluffy and makes you look a bit like a marshmallow. However, I don't care about that. I felt very girly and pretty.

Hat:

Pattern is "Sara" by Denise Nadine Designs. I made the brim 2 inches larger. Her directions are easy to follow but you are on your own as far as decorating goes. That is my preference anyways.

Now on to pictures!!

 The Countess and I talking shop.

 The lovely and lively Lady C and Empress S!

 The three graces.

 Our newest and youngest member was in attendance!

 Three lovely ladies! We like to travel in threes. One for the lookout and the other two can roll the drunks. ;-)

 Ms. R looking lovely amongst the flowers.

 The Countess and I enjoyed playing graces!

Weeeeeeeeeeee!!

 Lakewold Manor

 Two other lovelies enjoying graces!

 The back of Lakewold and the veranda where we set up our picnic.

 A perfect day for croquet!

 Hat detail.

 If you make a hat you wish to wear tilted it helps to put a bandeau inside the brim. The bandeau will stabilize the hat as it sits upon your head. This applies to hats that are designed to sit atop your head VS a hat you wear pulled down on your head.

Yes, my needlework is pretty coarse but I try not to sweat it. Nothing I do is perfect anyways. :-)

Jane Austen Appreciation Day WRS outing!

This last Sunday was The Washington Regency Society's Jane Day. We had been invited to the Seattle Public Library for a few hours to wear Regency costume and talk about Jane. It also enabled us to meet some potential new members! We had a great time and The Countess brought costume accessories etc....for people to try on.  Much fun was had by all, even Flat Jane our cardboard mascot. ;-)

We followed up with a WRS meeting at The Fairmont Olympic Hotel after our library adventure. There were snacks and booze on the menu. Plus it was happy hour! Drinks and food are served in their fancy lobby with plenty of comfortable seating.

 Flat Jane selfie!

 Just us two wallflowers.

 The darling Ms. K

The Countess as bad boy Mr. Wickham!

 And as Elizabeth!

 Oh dear! Two Elizabeths! Well, the naughty Liz for Mr. Wickham and the nice Liz for Mr. Darcy. Naughty Liz is on the right! ;-)

 At the Fairmont Olympic in Seattle.

 Patterns used--La Mode Bagatelle faux drop front dress in white clip dot with an underdress of yellow voile. Spencer is the cross front pattern by Laughing Moon patterns without sleeves. Bonnet pattern is the small brim Regency bonnet by Lynn McMasters. If you are going to make your first Regency bonnet I highly recommend the small brim version of this pattern. Use the gathered brim pattern piece for an easy brim finish.

Myself and the always lovely Countess! She has named this outfit of mine Buttercup.

I would just like to add that in the last two years of my costuming adventures I have met some of the most wonderful people! I am grateful for my new found friends! If you reside in the greater Seattle area and are interested in historical costuming here are some great groups:

WRS The Washington Regency Society

SITU Somewhere In Time Unlimited

Puget Sound Historical Costumers Guild

For the re-enactors set:

Northwest Colinial Re-enactors Association

WCWA Washington Civil War Association

Reenacting is a different animal from historical costuming. However, these groups don't mind us costumers showing up a civilians to their events wearing appropriate period costumes.

All of these groups are on FaceBook and have their own websites. I am to lazy to post links.