Tailor's Guide 1750-1785 Gown or Short Gown pattern

I have been wanting to make an 18th century gown with a stomacher for awhile. One that is not a sacque back, enfourreau back or a Big 4 pattern. I decided to go with the The Tailor's Guide 18th century gown pattern. I like the end product very much and will definitely use this to make a simpler dress of linen or heavy cotton. Tailor's Guide says this pattern is meant for reenactors with modern proportions. I don't know if that means "not wearing stays".

The pattern comes in sizes XS-XL. The instructions are printed on one big sheet of paper. Similar to Big 4 patterns. I made a muslin of the XL and it was too big everywhere. I measure approx 43-37-43 in stays. I went down to the size L and also made a muslin. The fit was much better. Plus with a stomacher I have room to play with the size.

Changes/Alterations:

I removed the small dart on the back neckline. It is kind of a strange little dart and it didn't really do anything for the fit.

I made the angled front bodice dart 1/2 inch bigger (added 1/4 on each side). This dart is very close to the front opening and is hidden by the trim.  I was being cautious about waist size, even with the stomacher.

I used my stomacher pattern piece from my JP Ryan Caraco pattern. It was handy and I like the size of it.

The sleeves run VERY tight. I have average middle aged lady arms and they were too tight on me. Make a muslin first to check. Glad I did. I enlarged the sleeve about 1 inch in width.

I did not make this a front lacing gown. The stomacher is sewn to one side of the bodice and pinned to the other.

Directions:

Not too difficult. Their pleating of the skirt is very involved (math). However, what I didn't have to do is re-pleat any parts of the skirt while attaching it. The skirt is VERY full and takes almost twice the fabric as the JP Ryan English Nightgown. It is beautiful though! The directions tell you how much length to add to the skirt so it drapes properly over hip pads (included in pattern). I am wearing mine over panniers so I measured the pannier drop on my dress form and added the 6 inches as instructed. Do not skimp on this part or your dress will be too short. The sleeves set in perfectly with a bit of pleating. There are no real directions for adding trim. Just look at examples and have fun!

Final say:

I love this dress and will use the pattern again. I think this is an intermediate level pattern. For a confident beginner I suggest JP Ryan's English Nightgown. The yardage they ask for is very spot on. I had nothing but scraps left.

Martha and George!

Regency Stays Sewing Pattern by Redthreaded

At some point I decided to try a bit of Regency sewing. My first project was the Laughing Moon regency chemise. It was simple to put together. I used an inexpensive muslin as my fabric choice. The next goal was regency stays. However, I was waffling on what pattern to go with.  I decided I didn't want to do a ton of fitting because lazy. I had been eyeballing Redthreaded's custom patterns on Etsy. Send in your measurements and in a couple weeks a pattern arrives in the mail. She also sells wooden busks for your stays. Perfect.

The pattern arrived with full instructions and hand drafted on butcher paper. It felt like love in an envelope. I decided  to just dive in and go for it! The instructions were easy to follow and I had no issues putting it together. Even the gussets. I have never sewn gussets in a foundation garment before. It was not as scary as I thought. Yay! I like the fit. The cups are just the right size and there is enough hip spring to allow for spread when I sit down. The front length is perfect. I don't get jabbed in the crotch by my busk when I sit. My lacing gap is wider at the top than at the bottom. However, once the stays are worn and become seasoned that will even itself out.

I highly recommend this pattern. Instructions are clear and concise, zero complaints.

What I used:

White coutil for foundation layer
White with gold dots cotton fabric as fashion layer
Metal grommets
Synthetic whalebone aka German plastic boning
Straight steels for the back lacing panels.
Wooden busk
Bias binding
Lacing cord
Twill tape

Sorry for the blur. My camera was being bitchy. Side view, you can see the nice lift my stays are providing. 

Nope. Not a rabid possum on my head, just the #$$%&*% humidity.

Back lacing gap is a bit wider at the top. Once the stays are seasoned it will become even with the bottom. 

The other thing I finished up today is the regency bodiced petticoat by Period Impressions. That was interesting. I am sorry I don't have pictures but I forgot. The instructions are adequate but the way they have you put in the drawstring and lap the bodice closed makes no sense. But I really don't need the drawstring. The bodice is a perfect fit with my stays on. Also there are no measurements given in the sizing. I cut the largest size (22) cuz, boobs.....

Laughing Moon 133 Chemise a la reign

This last weekend I experienced my first ever regency picnic! Now I have a tough time with regency fashions. The high waist, grapefruit on a platter boobage. It is a tough one for me personally. Actually anything regency thru the romantic era. Eh..... BUT I was game and really looking forward to meeting some new friends and seeing some old ones.

Not quite regency but......
What I didn't want to do is make a whole wardrobe from the ground up. Mainly because I didn't have the time. I landed on Laughing Moon 133 the chemise la reign. I find this dress very pretty and feminine. I decided on view B with high neckline, no train and full gathers for the bodice. LM offers an alternate bodice with less gathers. I like the other views but I didn't want all the fluff, ruffles and puffy sleeves. I am fluffy enough in my person so I felt the streamlined version would be best. Plus the dress is white. I never wear all white because it makes me feel like and Easter Peep (the bunny one not the chick) sans the packaging. I was contemplating pastel pink or blue then I LOL'd my way to JoAnns with that image in my head and bought white fabric. It is a sheer cotton with a thin woven stripe.

The pattern:
Instructions are easy to follow. They have changed their format and pattern paper. You can cut the instruction into individual pages and clip them together like a book. Yay! For an Aquarius with ADD this is a blessing. The patterns are on real paper with very clear cutting lines. Nice and sturdy.

Size:
I waffled between 18, 20,22. So I chose size 20. In stays my bust is 42, waist 36 and hips 43. I didn't want to go too large or too small but I am also not super familiar with LM's sizing. Yes, I made a muslin.

Alterations:
Shortened the shoulder 3/8 of an inch. Shortened the sleeve (dunno?) a bit too much but I can always add a bit of lace. The skirt measures quite long (45) my hem is 3 inches deep. I would say in my shoes I am 5ft 5 inches. I cut the waistband on size 22 (36 waist) and just made less gathers (not much really) when I attached it to the bodice. The sleeves are pretty generous in width but I would still make a muslin if you have fuller arms. On the bodice lining piece they show you where to make tucks so the bodice doesn't gap away from your chest at the top. This is for the high necked version. I am not sure about the low necked one.

I highly recommend this pattern. Especially if you are contemplating regency. You could make LM 130 tunic and wear it over this dress. That would throw you straight into regency with one easy project. I did in fact make the 130 tunic but was not 100% happy with it (not the patterns fault). So I decided two days before the event to make a sash and wear the dress as a traditional chemise.

What I am wearing underneath and accessories:
Low necked 18th century chemise, strapless 18th century stays (1770s-80s). Lol, and my 1890s petticoats. The sash has no pattern. I cut it 15 inches wide so it would be nice and full. The width when sewn together is about 7 inches. The hat was a thrift store find that I decorated with feathers and flowers. The crown I covered with fabric because it was very modern looking.

Larkin & Smith 18th century English Gown

Larkin & Smith English Gown 1770s 1780s. This was out of my comfort zone but I am very pleased with the result. Larkin & Smith offer historical patterns to be made up in the period manner (H/A). This dress was to be made entirely by hand. I am not a huge fan of handwork so mine is about 65% hand done. I highly recommend this pattern for intermediate level. It helps to have an idea of 18th century fashion and construction techniques. L&S patterns are very well drafted and the instructions come in book format with COLOR photos. You also get a set of garment pins for your finished dress. Yes, this dress is pinned closed, as they would have been in historical times. 

Muslin: Not too many adjustments. I shortened the shoulder straps 1/2 inch. I shortened the bodice 1.5 inches (I am short waisted). I also made a muslin of the sleeves just on case. I made no other adjustments. 
Construction: Directions are clear and concise. As you are going along if you feel something is left out just keep going. It gets covered along the way. This is a very methodical process. I was second guessing a couple things and FB messaged L&S. They were very helpful. However, had I just kept going my questions would have been answered. The back pleats are super easy! Don't be scared. There is a template you trace off and it is so easy. I did hand stitch my back pleats and it took little time. The sleeves are very easy to put it. It is done as a two step process and I had zero issues. 

Advice and end notes:
The back pleats take up a bit of length. I decided to add some extra to my back and skirt sections. You measure and figure out (easy math) how long you need your dress. I did not have a sewing friend to help with the measurement so I used my dress form set at my shoe wearing height. My length was 55 inches. Everyones will be different. I recommend extra fabric if you are tall. I am 5ft 4in. This dress requires stays. When you pin it closed the pins go into your stays. Mine are only half boned and it is more of a challenge for me, so I just do my best. This dress has no boning at all. Neither does the stomacher. Dress is very low cut, but I luv it!

Last but not least:

What I sewed by machine: Sleeves, skirt seams, robings, back of under bodice seam, petticoat. Everything else was done by hand. Dress and petticoat are made of linen. I am wearing the ugly puffer and two underskirts. Shoes by American Duchess.

8/11/2020 Updated pictures and more info:

After wearing this gown a couple times I realized the shoulders are still a bit too long for me. I'll need to go back and readjust at some point and I will also adjust the pattern pieces. I also made the "Brain" hat from the American Duchess book. 

TV462 Tail Bodice and TV263 Imperial skirt Victorian Bustle Dress 1880s

Because I was in need of a fantastic purple bustle dress for an upcoming event. The Vampires Ball in Portland Oregon. I wanted something that was properly historical but still could be worn to a more non traditional event. Costuming takes time so I want things that are versatile. 

This is the second time I have made this bodice. The first time I was a novice at costuming and had never worked with a TV bodice before, just skirts. I would say get a couple of her bodices under your belt before using this one. TV400 is a good one for a beginner and you can use it for both bustle eras. 

I highly recommend this pattern. I made the open necked version in purple silk taffeta. I used my normal size and did my normal adjustments. This bodice is easy to put together and the pleats are not difficult. Just look at the diagram and read the instructions. When you make the pleat markings I suggest marking them on the right side of your underlining and the right side of your bodice lining, if you are lining the bodice. That way you can always see the marks and everything matches up. I did contact TV and asked if the puff sleeve from TV460 would work with TV462. She said yes. That is the sleeve I have used here. Such an easy sleeve to do! I also put a nice ruffle of lace around the neckline and on the sleeves.

Side notes:
My skirt is the Imperial skirt. As you can see I used it as a foundation and did my own thing. I am wearing the Imperial bustle and a bustle pad. I slip the bustle pad into the top of my bustle and it keeps the skirts from weighing it down. Hence the nice 1880s big bustle.

The flowers I made from various colors of lining fabric. I found a tutorial on YouTube. Yay for tutorials! They don't take long to make and have become sort of a guilty pleasure for me to make. I like that you can use inexpensive lining fabric for these. Because you use an open flame to curl the petals you have to use synthetic fibers. I tried a few different types.

Costume Satin: Underwhelming. A bit too heavy. Even the lightweight cheapy stuff was meh..

Poly Organza: Underwhelming also. A bit to springy and didn't curl as nice.

Chiffon: Huge PITA. Slippery.

Thin poly lining fabrics like China Silk: This particular brand works the best IMHO. I tried some other lining fabrics and they were ok, but not as nice as China Silk. Red has been the toughest color to work with so far. Something about the color causes it to blacken on the edges. Even if I hold it the same distance away as I do the white or pink. You can also use tulle but you don't need to put that near a flame.

Flower close up. And feathers, gotta have feathers.

Truly Victorian Edwardian Underwear TVE02, awkward undergarment photos and the TMI restroom zone

I previously had made the TVE02 combinations in white batiste with the evening neckline. I really, really like combinations. Far more than the traditional drawers and chemise. Why wear two separate garments when you can just wear one! I will pretty much wear combinations under any Victorian era. Sorry, not historically accurate but much more convenient.

The evening bodice is the faster of the two to make. Great for low/wide necklines. After making the evening version I decided to make my next pair with the regular bodice. I found this gorgeous floral batiste online and it was pure love!! Once again not historically accurate, but who cares.

Really what takes the longest on the undergarments are all the facings. Once you pass that point they go together quickly. I recommend using a fusible interfacing or sew in for all the facings. I make my combinations to wear under my corset. So I use my non corseted measurements. I made no alterations. For reference I am 5ft 4in tall. If you are taller you may want to lengthen them, or not. This is a really great pattern and not difficult to use at all. I highly recommend it.

Awkward undergarment photos:

So, something I struggle with, besides body image is reviewing undergarments. I don't know why I feel so self conscious. Because certainly I am wearing MORE damn clothing than I would be at the beach!!!! It probably has to do with the fetishizing of corsets and underwear in general. I guess stockings, bras and garter belts fall into that category. So pretty much anything women wear under their clothing is fair game. Knowing this makes me feel a bit awkward about posting pictures and reviewing. I do recognize that this is my personal hangup. I am making an effort to move beyond it.

You will notice that I only take one picture, unless it is petticoats or a corset. There are two reasons for this. Number one, I am lazy. Number two, Victorian drawers are split down the crotch. Yes, Victorian women used the bathroom. SHOCKING! I know. You are not going to be pulling down your drawers to do this. Not in all those petticoats and skirts plus a corset. It was done for convenience. When you see a pair at an antique store they are not "whore's drawers". Well, maybe they were....who knows. Needless to say I am wrestling with this whole open crotch thing when taking pictures. But I manage to get a couple good shots in. I suppose I could just pin them shut for photos....then lazy happens. ;-)

TVE02 regular bodice, no ruffles.

The TMI zone AKA using the ladies room while in costume:

While we are here lets head into the TMI zone! I had someone ask me once how I used the restroom when I am in costume. Well first you hope for normal restrooms VS a porta potty. Then you also hope they are somewhat clean. When you get down to it, it is quite simple. You sit facing the back of the toilet. Pretty much any bridal Q&A website will spill the beans on this technique. I haven't yet been in a situation with only porta potties. Hopefully I never will. I hate those things even when I am not in costume. Also I was recently reading about the 18th century Bourdaloue. Looks like a porcelain gravy boat but in fact was a small chamber pot ergonomically designed for the female form. Here is the Bourdaloue in action.

Painting by Francois Boucher

Also worth noting women did not wear drawers until the 19th century. They wore a chemise, stays (like a corset but a different shape) stockings, garters (ribbons tied around the leg above the knee to hold up stockings) and a petticoat or two. The 18th century lady in the above painting would not have been wearing drawers.

I do not have a Bourdaloue but I could certainly see the need of one for people doing historical reenactment. Especially in a camp situation. 

I also recently read about this nifty invention called the bridal buddy. It is a sheer drawstring skirt you wear under your dress and petticoats. When you have to hit the loo you just lift up the Bridal Buddy and pull the drawstring. It encloses all your skirts and petticoats. Keeps everything off the floor. Well, you can file all this under "the more you know". ;-)

2016 Port Townsend Victorian Festival and Plaid Walking suit.

I was lucky enough to be able to attend the 2016 Port Townsend Victorian Festival for the whole weekend. I was accompanied by my husband and our two sons. We stayed at Manresa Castle. It was lovely!

I brought five different outfits to wear. Oh my! Four were from the 1890s era and one was an 1870s bustle dress. The bustle dress was specifically for the fashion show. Needless to say there was a tremendous lot of packing. I kept my shoe choices simple. For regular wear I use my Frye granny boots. A nice practical 1.5 inch heel and almond shaped toe. I can wear them all day with no issues. For the ball I wore my American Duchess Tango boots. I love them! But alas a 3 inch heel means only a few hours of wear. They are very well balanced and easy to dance in. I do think a person who is more used to heels could get longer wear out of them.

Friday night there was a Sea Shanty sing along. It was a lot of fun even though I was sober and didn't know any of the songs. I wore my red 1890s outfit for the sing along. I received many compliments on it.

The lady in red!

Saturday was a very busy day. I started my morning selling tickets for VicFest. I did that for a couple of hours. I then went to see a lecture on watches and how women wore them. After that I had lunch with another costumer and friend. Then back to the hotel to prepare for the Victorian Fashion Show. I also needed a bit of downtime. I am fairly introverted but can be extroverted when needed. But I also know my limitations. In order to take care of myself I need a bit of quiet to recharge my batteries. 

The fashion show was wonderful. Happily my husband also participated in this event. After the fashion show we had dinner and then it was off to the ball! I wore my black silk taffeta 1890s evening gown. I used Truly Victorian's Ripple Bodice (with modifications) and the fabulous Ripple Skirt. I also changed out the sleeve to her  TV495, large evening poof sleeve. Yes, very poofy!

Sunday the guys went home in the morning and I joined my friends for a tea party at The Commander's Beach house. It was fabulous! Here are some pictures of the full adventure!

 In the bar at Manresa Castle. Cheers!

Practical 1890s walking skirt and blouse. 

At the fashion show with The Countess.

 Myself and the Mr. Mimi

Manresa Castle before the ball. 

At the ball getting ready for the grand march. 

Commander's Beach House after the tea. 

1890s puff sleeve competition. Lady Rebecca is clearly the winner. 

My friend The Fabulous Val. 

My turn for silly!

Truly Victorian's TV297 1898 flared skirt and TV496 Ripple bodice using the collar and sleeve from the Eaton jacket. Probably my favorite sleeve design.

My latest project is an 1850s-ish dress for a May event. I don't normally do anything pre bustle except a modest amount of late 18th century. So I am keeping the dress simple and easy. I am using a pretty teal cotton print and I may make a bonnet. Not sure yet. If I do it will be a dark brown. Teal and dark brown are in my top 5 color combinations.