Friday, July 10, 2015

J. P. Ryan 18th Century Jackets

This is a great little 18th century pattern with lots of options. I felt it ran about one size smaller than the Robe a l' Anglaise I made. I ordered the size bust 42-44. Size 42 is the one I made which is the same size I made in the Robe a l' Anglaise. However on the the Robe I had to take a bit out of the front seam for it to fit. For my jacket (view D), since I had already cut out the size 42......Of course! Why trace the damn thing off when you can just cut it. Impatient Mimi is impatient....

I made the stomacher wider on the sides by 1 inch and used a smaller seam allowance along the front seam. The fit is good but close. Also the sleeves are pretty fitted. So if you have larger arms you will want to check to make sure they are not too tight. This jacket is fairly quick to make up until you get to the lacing eyelets. Yeah.....those have to be all sewn by hand. I am pretty sure view A would be the quickest to make.

The stomacher is boned down both sides and the center. My stomacher sandwich consisted of 1 layer of each, fashion fabric, down proof ticking, cotton duck and plain white cotton. I also used pre made boning tape instead of sewing the channels directly onto the stomacher. That way I am guaranteed an exact 1/4 inch boning channel. I decided to use German plastic boning instead of steel. German plastic is nice quality and a hell of lot less work than cutting and tipping the steels. This all came together really nicely.

 My fabric is a floral cotton (not quite chintz) that I bought at Farmhouse Fabrics. I made my petticoat (skirt) out of a nice green linen. The only thing I will be changing is my lacing ribbon. The shiny cream stuff is the only 1/4 inch ribbon I could locate in my stash. Oh sweet irony. I have loads of ribbon, just none in the right width.

The above picture is my first JP Ryan jacket. The fabric is NOT period appropriate but I'm leaving this picture here to show my progress in 18th century fashion and hopefully it will help in your progress too!!

Pictures updated in 2020 below

This was my second version of the JP Ryan jacket. It is make from cream colored tone on tone woven stripe linen from Burnley & Trowbridge. I am wearing this with a bum pad.

Here is a more recent version in black wool suiting. This one is super easy and just pins closed down the center front. The quilted yellow silk petticoat was made from pre quilted fabric purchased via Larkin & Smith. They have stopped selling fabric though. :-(

For my caps I'm wearing a simple white Voile ruffled cap from a Fashions Revisited pattern (Etsy) and a "Grand Coiffure" cap in Voile from a Kannik's Corner pattern. This style I think was somewhat popular with Catholics (others too) and I'm paying some homage to my Quebec Catholic ancestors. It is worn over another cap when out in public and can be worn alone for undress at home. 

Decades of Style Hazel's Frock

Decades of Style Hazel's frock. Please excuse my hat, I haven't had time to make one to match the dress. But I needed something to cover my frizzy mess. This is a nice easy pattern and goes together pretty quickly until you get to the bias drapes. They really need a rolled hem and I am too lazy to do that. I tried scraps on my serger but it looked like crap. I fussed with my rolled hem attachment on my other machine and it still looked like crap. I was not about to do that many rolled hems by hand. Nope and nope. So I just pressed a narrow hem, sewed it and used lots of fray check. I did not need to make any alterations to the fit. I cut size C-42. It is a loose comfortable fit. I like the french darts. The sleeves I made elbow length. I also added a collar/neck tie and a band at the hips. I left off the shoulder drape. I bought the fabric from Mood. It is a (yikes sheer) silk voile with gold metallic threads. All in all a nice 20s style pattern.