Thursday, June 16, 2016

More 1890s sewing Truly Victorian Eaton jacket & walking skirt in green linen TV498 TV291

I really like the quality of linen from They have an excellent selection of linen in different weights. I bought this mid weight green linen awhile back and decided to get it out of my stash.  Yay!

Truly Victorian Eaton Jacket:
I have made this quite a few times. It goes together quickly. I decided to underline this version and finished the raw edges with matching bias tape instead of doing a separate lining. A lot of Victorian clothing was unlined but underlined. This is a great jacket for a beginner to Truly Victorian patterns.

Truly Victorian walking skirt:
I chose to keep this really simple and do away with the underlining. Needless to say it went together very quickly. I also sewed the hem by machine because lazy. I wanted something quick and easy. This is an easy skirt to sew. I highly recommend this one for beginning costumers.

The blouse is a sleeveless shell I made from the Wingeo pattern #307 without the front gathered panel. It makes a nice basic shell for suits and such.

In the end I have a nice linen 1890s walking suit. Something I have wanted to make for awhile.

Thursday, June 9, 2016

Larkin & Smith 18th century English Gown

Larkin & Smith English Gown 1770s 1780s. This was out of my comfort zone but I am very pleased with the result. Larkin & Smith offer historical patterns to be made up in the period manner (H/A). This dress was to be made entirely by hand. I am not a huge fan of handwork so mine is about 65% hand done. I highly recommend this pattern for Intermediate level. It helps to have an idea of 18th century fashion and construction techniques. L&S patterns are very well drafted and the instructions come in book format with COLOR photos. You also get a set of garment pins for your finished dress. Yes, this dress is pinned closed, as they would have been in historical times. 

Muslin: Not too many adjustments. I shortened the shoulder straps 1/2 inch. I shortened the bodice 1.5 inches (I am short waisted). I also made a muslin of the sleeves just on case. I made no other adjustments. 
Construction: Directions are clear and concise. As you are going along if you feel something is left out just keep going. It gets covered along the way. This is a very methodical process. I was second guessing a couple things and FB messaged L&S. They were very helpful. However, had I just kept going my questions would have been answered. The back pleats are super easy! Don't be scared. There is a template you trace off and it is so easy. I did hand stitch my back pleats and it took little time. The sleeves are very easy to put it. It is done as a two step process and I had zero issues. 

Advice and end notes:
The back pleats take up a bit of length. I decided to add some extra to my back and skirt sections. You measure and figure out (easy math) how long you need your dress. I did not have a sewing friend to help with the measurement so I used my dress form set at my shoe wearing height. My length was 55 inches. Everyones will be different. I recommend extra fabric if you are tall. I am 5ft 4in. This dress requires stays. When you pin it closed the pins go into your stays. Mine are only half boned and it is more of a challenge for me, so I just do my best. This dress has no boning at all. Neither does the stomacher. Dress is very low cut, but I luv it!

Last but not least:
What I sewed by machine: Sleeves, skirt seams, robings, back of under bodice seam, petticoat. Everything else was done by hand. Dress and petticoat are made of linen. I am wearing the ugly puffer and two underskirts. Shoes by American Duchess.

8/11/2020 Updated pictures and more info:

After wearing this gown a couple times I realized the shoulders are still a bit too long for me. I'll need to go back and readjust at some point and I will also adjust the pattern pieces. I also made the "Brain" hat from the American Duchess book.