Saturday, November 26, 2016

Wingeo WN719 Regency Stovepipe Bonnet

I really love this hat. I need another. This has a similar look to a 20s cloche except it is much taller. I can rock a 20s cloche and think this hat is looking pretty fine on my head! On to the pattern!

Eh........I have other patterns by Wingeo. Their patterns are pretty basic and instructions minimal. I consider their patterns more for theater level costuming. Their clothing patterns tend to have overly large arm openings and lots of ease. This hat was no different.

Pattern Info:
Three piece pattern, crown, hat body and brim. There are separate pieces for the hat fabric with added seam allowances. The directions are printed on the pattern paper, no separate pages.

Supplies used:
Heavy buckram, silk fabric, cotton batting (mull) and heavy sew in interfacing for the brim. The pattern does not call for mull at all. I used it as my main fabric that goes under the gathered fabric. Why waste good fabric no one will see anyway. This pattern does not use wire.

Making the hat:
Think of this pattern as a guide with pieces. As far as sizing goes you are on your own. First off this hat comes in several sizes. S-L. This hat runs really large. Now that being said, just like a cloche this hat needs to fit down on your head. You will want some ease room. Make a muslin. I used the size medium and I can fit a finger up inside the hat when I am wearing it. I have a 23 inch head FYI. My first hint of an issue is when I noticed the crown was smaller then the hat body. I went to sew it on and I had about an inch of excess hat body. Its buckram, not like I'm gonna be able to ease it. So I had to make the hat body an inch smaller. Luckily this pattern is large to begin with. Got the crown attached and the hat still fit. Yay! I used the batting to mull my really crappy looking buckram hat form. It was pretty sad looking. Once it was mulled I decided to forgo the sparse instructions and lay some Lynn McMasters style all up in that bitch. I gathered up the crown fabric and hand stitched it to the hat. Then I gathered up the hat body, folded in the top seam allowance and hand stitched in to the crown and basted it at the bottom. Well you know when you change the size of the hat body you are going to be changing the brim size too. Did that. I hand stitched on the brim as well. This pattern calls for no lining at all or a hat band. You fold up the under brim and stitch it inside the hat. Yeah no. I cut a lining piece using the pattern piece for the hat body. Folded up the SA and stitched it in the hat. I put a drawstring at the top of the lining and gathered it up. You can only see a bit of the buckram crown when you look inside the hat. Then decorating!! Have fun!

Notes and advice:
As you are making the hat try it on periodically. You will probably need to make adjustments. Lol. Even the instructions tell you to adjust before attaching this or that. I knew I was on my own at that point.
Cut the crown at the largest size, you can always trim it to fit.
Use a good quality heavy sew in interfacing for the brim. I used Sew Lazy heavy sew in.
I would recommend mulling the hat crown and body with flannel or batting.
Sew most of it by hand. I only used the machine to gather the hat fabric.
Make a lining, your head will thank you.
Cut out your brim as usual. I pinned it and started stitching at the CF. First to the right then to the left. I stopped about 1.5 inches from the CB on each side. Then I could see where my adjusted brim seam needed to be. Stitched the brim seam and finished attaching it to the hat. No guess work or math. Easy Peasy.

Final thoughts:
I am really glad I stuck with it. As I was putting it together I was thinking "wow, this is ugly". It's really not. I love my new ridiculous Regency hat!

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