Tuesday, May 19, 2020

Natural form undergarments, Truly Victorian and Mantua Maker patterns

I made three natural form outfits plus one tea gown for the 2020 Port Townsend Victorian Festival. Sadly it was cancelled. :-(

I'm going to start with the undergarments and then the actual dresses will be on a separate post.

Undergarments:

TV125---Petticoat, no train
Mantua Maker 1880-10 princess petticoat
Self drafted bustle pad (gotta add some subtle curves and a bit of skirt support)

*I also wear hip and bum pads under my corset since my hip/waist ratio is lacking and I need some help.


Bustle pad:

Self drafted based on a museum garment. I used ticking and horsehair canvas bound with bias tape. I basically just looked at the picture and drew the shaped onto pattern paper. I checked the sizing by draping the paper on me and then once it was of proper scale I broke out the fabric and started sewing.


Fun bit of bum padding!


TV125 natural form petticoat, no train but I can add one later: Size made 36 waist.

Petticoat closes at the front. I had to shorten mine about 1.5 inches. I used an crisp percale IKEA bedcover that had pin tucks already sewn for me. :-) The pattern has you stuffing and sewing some crinoline netting sandwiched in-between two layers of fabric on the back of the petticoat. You do not see the netting at all. I decided (I had no netting and didn't want to buy any) to just use cotton organdy ruffles instead. I get plenty of support with the ruffles and am not missing the netting at all. Petticoat is easy to sew and I had no issues with it.




Mantua Maker princess petticoat: Size made XL. I used some lovely pinstriped cotton shirting. The ruffles are pre ruffled eyelet.

Nice pattern, directions are wordy and sometimes bossy. Not difficult to follow at all. You cut your size and fit it as you go. I actually like this idea and at the end you have an actual thing to wear. :-) You don't want this skin tight so lave a bit of ease for weight or for days you don't wish to lace as tightly. Pattern was easy to sew and I like the fact it has a very low square neckline so it goes under evening dresses nicely.



I added 2 ruffles at the bottom and pretty lace trim with blue ribbon.

That is it for my natural form undergarments. Of course this is worn with a corset and additional hip/bum padding.






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